FAQs

 

Disease, and Pest/Bug Related Questions

For recurring pest and disease problems look at your daily patterns. You could be reintroducing pest/diseases with your with your clothes, your tools, and even your pets. If you have a pet, try to keep them out of the growing environment. If you have multiple growing areas, change your clothes and/or wear and change gloves to ensure you are not carrying the problem back and forth. If you have used a method for curing the pest or mold, and you have multiple growing areas, treat all of the areas whether affected or not. When you are treating an area, try to treat it twice over a week to ensure best results. Here’s a tip with Pests: Hardy pests like spider mites and thrips have a short life span. A mite lives about 35 days and a thrip about 55 days.  They are able to lay eggs within 5-7 days of hatching. If you “bug bomb” it will only kills the pests that are alive, it will not affect the eggs. I call a bug bomb release the “knock down”.  If you spray your plants you might not get every inch of every surface, but if you use a bug bomb in conjunction with the spray, you will be far better off.  Use the bomb first, then the spray. And if you have a severe infestation, try to bug bomb twice, in a 10 day period. This will ensure you have killed the pests that have hatched before they mature to adults and lay more eggs.

Using water filtration allows you more control over the big picture. It gives you a clean base to work from and to build up from with your nutrient. Water filtration eliminates chlorine, bacteria, fungi, mold, rust, and many other negative contaminates from your water system. I say get one! Also, if you’re using beneficial microbes or bacteria and you are on city water, it must be filtered; this is because the chlorine and other chemicals will kill off most of what you want to benefit from.

For animals like deer and raccoons you can use urine as the simplest deterent. You can use your own and/or purchase real or synthetic mountain lion urine. Another great way of deterring these animals is using a motion activated sprinkler, although if your plants are flowering you might not want to get them wet. To keep birds out you can buy netting which will keep them out quite effectively. For gophers you can put a stake in the ground that deters them with sound. You can also dig a trench around the garden and fill it with chicken wire, let them take a bite out of that! JUICY FRUIT GUM actually WORKS! Ball up a piece of gum and toss it in the gopher hole, they cannot resist the gum. The gum will kill them dead. Not only do you eliminate the pest, but you do it cheaply and without toxins.

Yellow spots are usually a sign of over feeding. If you are using a foliar spray it is probably the cause. If you have used a “bug bomb”, it could also be the cause. Stopping over feeding is all you can do. Because plants take 2-3 days to show signs, you might see this continue for a few days, after you have stopped. Flush your plants once to ensure there is no odd build up in the pot.

Using beneficial microbes and or fungi is the way to go! The fastest and best way to see results is to use a tea. If you are using beneficials, you need to be filtering your water. If you are on city water, it is most likely treated with chemicals such as chlorine that kill beneficials. RO filters will prevent this. Be sure to use a sugar product as this is food for beneficial microbes. Enzymes also help in healthy root production (I use Hygrozyme).

If it isn’t the nutrient you are using (coloring the roots) than you most likely have root rot. To cure this problem dilute 1 TBS of 35% hydrogen peroxide/Gallon of water. Rinse or spray the roots with the solution. SM-90 will also work. Using an enzyme product will help the dead roots to breakdown more quickly.

If it is brown mold (in the flower) the humidity is too high. You need more airflow or a dehumidifier. If you are seeing a white powder mold, most types are toxic to inhale so be careful. If you already have it there are a number of organic products to use. Serenade is one I’ve used and it works great, I’d use few applications. If you have powder mold recurring regularly, try increasing your airflow to drop the humidity. Conidia (the mold spores) thrive in temperatures 55-95 F so temperature control is not something you can use to prevent it. In an indoor environment, the best preventative is a sulfur burner. When the sulfur evaporates, the surfaces of the room will be at a pH that the mold cannot grow in. If your plants grow very fast, I recommend giving two dosages. For flowering plants, do not use a sulfur evaporator after the 2nd week. One downside of using a sulphur evaporator is that the smell sticks around for weeks and could taint the smell of your fruit or flowers.

You can use products like SM-90, Hygrozyme, Florashield, or Humboldt’s Mayan Microzyme. You can use any enzyme based product that your current nutrient is compatible with.

For recurring pest and disease problems look at your daily patterns. You could be reintroducing pest/diseases with your clothes, your tools, and even your pets. If you have a pet, try to keep them out of the growing environment. If you have multiple growing areas, change your clothes and/or wear and change gloves to ensure you are not carrying the problem back and forth. If you have used a method for curing the pest or mold, and you have multiple growing areas, treat all of the areas whether affected or not. When you are treating an area, try to treat it twice over a week to ensure best results. Here’s a tip with Pests: Hardy pests like spider mites and thrips have a short life span. A mite lives about 35 days and a thrip about 55 days.  They are able to lay eggs within 5-7 days of hatching. If you “bug bomb” it will only kill the pests that are alive and will not affect the eggs. I think of a bug bomb release as the “knock down”.  If you spray your plants you might not get every inch of every surface; but if you use a bug bomb in conjunction with the spray you will be far better off.  Use the bomb first, then the spray. If you have a severe infestation try to bug bomb twice in a 10 day period. This will ensure you have killed the pests that have hatched before they mature to adults and lay more eggs.

Not really. One method of curing this is to use plastic sheet covers. This is an easy solution if you are having an algae problem. The coco coir roles work great in the tray. Coir mats are reusable if you clean them. If you are worried about the algae right now, relax, it does not usually create a huge problem. But if you want to clean it immediately use a Tablespoon of 35% hydrogen peroxide in a gallon of water. Fill a spray bottle with the solution and spray the tray (its fine if the plants are in it).

You are over watering. There could be root rot due to the over watering. Let the plants’ pots dry out while checking them regularly. If you buy a moisture meter you can begin to properly manage your moisture, and over time you will not need it. If you place you finger all the way in and you see water on your finger when you pull it out, your media is still too wet. Coir holds a lot of water. On your next round, try to cut your media with Perlite for proper aeration and drainage. If you have an automatic watering system, try switching to manually watering for a bit. This can also be caused by an excessive salt build up (although this is not usually the case). Try going without nutrients for a day or two to alleviate this.

If a plant is left sitting in a pool of water, the soil will not drain/shed the water the way it was designed to (until the water in the saucer is depleted). This means less oxygen is held in the soil because of the over saturation (It causes the plant suffocate a bit).

You can easily purchase a Bug Zapper, introduce predators like the praying mantis, or use a mosquito magnet! That’s right, Google it! Getting rid of standing also prevents them from reproducing.